Introduction to Miniature Painting, Lesson 5

Lesson 5 - Detailing I

After finishing the basecoat and drybrush on our Goblin Archers, it was time to start showing techniques for bringing out the details of the models.  Keeping it simple should be a priority if you're just beginning, and these models had just enough detail to get done in one session as a group.  Using some contrasting colors and very small brushes, we put our flow control skills to use on a much smaller area to finish off this outstanding set.

Won't you take me to ... Goblin Town?

Your mix of water to paint will normally be less water as you do details, as you don't want the color to run anywhere except where you're putting it.  Be very mindful of the amount of water your brush is retaining going into the detailing stage, as even a small amount can be too much and cause all sorts of havoc to your carefully rendered base colors and highlights.  After finishing each application of a color or finishing an intricate detail using multiple colors, fix the mistakes and move on to the next stage.

Eyes are hard, but you should do those first.  If you make any mistakes, you can reapply the base color and drybrush after the eye has been painted, carefully concealing your mistake and "locking in" the eye behind the highlights of the face.  Don't worry too much about mistakes at this stage though, as it's very easily fixed once the paint dries.

Claws are easy.  A swipe of paint and you're done.  Fixing an overbrush mistake is as easy as letting paint run into the grooves of the fingers.  Same for the teeth, which we did with one color here as this lesson was focused on application technique rather than artform blending.

There was a few other details to bring out, such as the fletching on the bows.  Overall, they turned out fantastic and the class did a bang-up job all around.  We'll have an update on this set very soon, with a complete color guide to the finished models...you know, in case we want to do it again.

Introduction to Miniature Painting, Lesson 4

Lesson 4 - Drybrushing I

The drybrush technique is a ubiquitous tool that you will use throughout your career as a hobby gamer.  It's easy to do, easy to practice and after a few minis you'll begin to see how you can use it in your projects.  This is one of the best ways to provide highlights or a two-stage basecoat for your models, and is a very quick method for assembly line painting.  We had our class practice on several goblin models to get used to how it works.

Won't you take me to - GOBLIN TOWN?!

In order to use the technique, you need to prepare your brush.  Get it wet, then put some paint on it and dab out all the moisture and paint on a paper towel or some other surface.  Once it's dry, put a little more paint on it, then dab away all the paint until there's almost nothing on the brush.

Pull the brush across the raised areas of the model and the pigment that is left will begin to collect on the surface. The more you brush, the stronger the highlight will be.  You will have to practice with your flow control to get to where you are comfortable, but generally more is less.  You can always add more depth to the drybrush by going over it again.

We used the goblin's skin and robes to practice our drybrushing on.  The dark green of the skin gives way to the light raised tones.  The black of the robe is highlighted by drybrushing on just the hint of grey.  When drybrushing two different areas on one model like this, make sure you clean up the overbrush (where one color "goes out of the lines").

Be sure there's no water in the bristles before you actually put the drybrush on your model, as that could have disastrous consequences.  Make sure to have some sort of surface to brush out the water and paint on, as you'll be getting most of your paint on this scrap surface.  I use a normal paper towel as it's quite absorbent and will pull the water right out of the brush.

The class picked this up fast, and are ready for the next session.  The projects are finishing up quickly with so many hands on them.  Thanks to everyone who helped out, and who are pitching in with painting models going forward!

Introduction to Miniature Painting, Lesson 3

Our 10-part introduction to miniature painting continues this week with our last session.  Our students are starting to churn out some really nice stuff for the club!  By the time this is over, they will have lots of practice under their belts - enough to get some of those nice Wargate commissions!

Lesson 3 - Ink Washes

An ink is a heavy pigment in a thin medium that has the consistency of water.  Since ink contains heavy pigment, it tends to gather in the recesses of the model, shading it (making it darker). There are numerous techniques to using inks, but today we're just going to introduce them into our repertoire by examining a very basic technique:  washing.

Are those dogs?

To perform an ink wash on a model, simply brush the ink over the entire model.  It will shade the figure, as well as provide a color hue.  Even though ink gathers in the recessed portions of the model, a color tint can will left on the raised portions as well depending on how many coats of ink were applied.  You can also apply ink to only certain portions of a model, shading it and changing the hue as needed.

On one set of models, we used a light ink over the entire model, followed by a darker ink over the main body.  This produced a nice, natural transition in tone for the simple models we were using.  By leaving the face, paws and tail alone during the application of the dark coat we see an instant and very fetching effect occur.

You can darken an ink by applying it in multiple layers.  Like all paints, make sure the first layer is dry before applying the second.  The lighter rats below were simply inked a second time, leaving the face, paws and tail alone as before.  The natural looking gradient is very easy to achieve, and with time and practice this will become second nature.

No such luck.  Those are giant rats - because of course they are.

Like all the models we're painting during this class, we'll be showing the completed project off in our Gallery section ASAP.  Lots of great stuff coming up for the galleries, for all categories.  We've got a lot to show off, so our next photo session is going to be swamped!

One last thing:  this is the Wargate's three-hundredth post!  March 13th, 2010 we launched this new blog, and it's been an absolute pleasure to have been with  you this long.  In just a few months, we'll be a full five years old at this location, with this name.  I want to send a huge, heartfelt thank you to all our Gatekeepers for all for your hard work and support for the last four and a half years.

It looks like we'll be around for quite some time, barring any incidents involving monsters or swords (or other implements of destruction).  With so many things coming up, we're not going to just evaporate - the Wargate is only growing stronger.  So, with that I'll just say one more thing:  it's good to feel loved!

Introduction to Miniature Painting, Lesson 2

Welcome back to our Introduction to Miniature Painting class log.  It's been a moment since we've been able to actually write this stuff down, but the class has been rolling along strong!  A few days of good weather gave us enough time to get over a hundred models prepped and ready for use in the class and by the club! 

Lesson 2 - Base Coating and Flow Control:  Assembly Line

After getting the first set of archers done, we sat down for the second set.  We'll have a unit of 20 when they are all finished, and just in time:  our player characters in Dungeons & Dragons are already attempting to conquer an untamed land and bring civilization to a savage wilderness.  We all know how that goes - you're probably going to need a ton of soldiers, and I'll wager at least 20 of them will be archers.

Reverend Greg has already turned in a list of units he wants to hire...

We concentrated on the same pattern we used on the first set, but these models were slightly different.  However, the class was instructed in the "Assembly Line" technique and put to work completing a larger number of archers in the same amount of class time.  The class immediately caught on and in no time we had all of these guys ready for the QuickShade treatment.

We'll all be dodging arrows eventually...as soon as she's finished with her nails.

The Assembly Line is a fairly easy concept.  Each stage is repeated on a set of models, one after another, before going on to the next stage.  For example, you have five models on your paint table.  You start with stage 1, and the skin is painted on one model and then that model is set aside.  You then go to the next model and paint only the skin, setting that one aside and moving to the next when finished.  Continue on the same paint stage for all the models, then return to the first and begin stage 2...which in this case was the breeches.

Using this method can speed up your work, but it's only recommended you use this technique with models that are very similar in appearance to make maximum use of your color palette.  You will also find you will waste less paint preparing your brush and flow, as you will use the same color for longer periods of time.

You should try not to work on too many models at the same time.  I usually have a limit of five at a time, but then I spend a lot of time on cleanup and details for each one.  However, normal infantry like this can get by with a quick table-ready paint job, especially if you are going to be using QuickShade on them.

Class is moving along great!  Next week, we'll move on to more advanced techniques - though we'll still be using simple models to practice on.  The practice will definitely pay off, with what lies ahead for our intrepid painters once this class is finished!  We've got a huge job ahead of us getting all our models show-worthy, but it won't take long at this rate!

Introduction to Miniature Painting, Lesson 1

We've started an irregular class at the Wargate designed to teach novice painters how to begin in the hobby from the ground up.  These introductory lessons will impart all the necessary techniques needed to begin painting gaming miniatures, and we've had a pretty decent turnout so far!  Today's article also begins a new section of the website:  the Paint Guide!

Some of our Gatekeepers hard at work during the class.

Lesson 1 - Base Coating and Flow Control

We began today on a set of old archers for medieval battles.  The models were cleaned and basecoated, and provided to the students to practice on.  They are old sculpts, and very "open" as it were.  Not a lot of hard to reach places and very straightforward color areas.

The most important thing you will learn painting miniatures is that the water on your brush tip can drastically affect how your paint behaves.  It is very important to learn this at the very beginning to avoid silly mistakes that almost all of us make when first starting.  It was a very simple session, designed so the students could practice applying the paint more than anything else.

The entire class painted one (or two, if slightly more experienced) of these archers to practice basecoating.  Flow control (using the water on the brush) was the watchword of the day, as all the students had to do was follow an easy, step-by-step order for applying each color.  Here, the class learned that sometimes light colors go on thin over darker base coats, and that multiple layers of thin coats of paint are how to achieve opaqueness in the color.

Hey bro, do you even camera?

Forgive our blurry, out-of-focus progress picture.  We'll have more updates on the class as it progresses, and we'll see what our students generate for some awesome games!  You can bet you'll be seeing these archers again...this time, finished and based by our staff.  The picture will be much better, I promise.

Introduction to Miniature Painting is held on Monday nights at 6pm.  The weather here might actually stop our progress, so the classes are informal affairs and attendance is not required.  We're going to make sure we have the best materials for you to practice with and learn the ins and outs of painting miniatures.

In addition, there will be some nifty opportunities coming up for painters around the Wargate, and if you're a brush for hire in the Ada area let us know.  We will soon announce we're looking for contractors to paint an endless stream of models, so get a jump-start on it!  That's it for today, and I'll see you for the next lesson soon!

The Glue of Woe

Today's bit is a small rant about technique and market choice.  My focus today is on the practicalities of using that most ubiquitous of the modeller's tools:  model glue.  It won't take long, and I just have to sound off on a topic that's actually become more of a concern to me in recent months.  There may not seem like there's much to talk about in regards to a person's selection of glue, but there are a few practicalities and considerations I want to point out.

What are these considerations, you ask?  What about the glue I'm using, you exclaim?  Hold on, I'll get there.

First of all, lets talk about glue types and why it even matters to me.  There are two major types of glue you should be concerned about as a modeler, and most of you already know this.  Those types are: plastic glue, which actually melts plastic to form a polymer weld; and normal "super" glue, which simply forms a chemical bond without making a weld.  This is an important distinction.  

GW sells both of these types of glue, in both a "thick" and "thin" variety.  They are pretty pricey as well.  So what's the issue, Bone?  Is this another price grumble?  Well, not today.  

Over the past two years I've been restoring a lot of old models.  Metals, plastics - all stripped, cleaned up and repurposed.  Hundreds of models since January 2012 (literally - I have no real count of how many I've done) have passed through my process, and I'm pretty sure I've got the restoration process nailed.  I'll be showing off some of that work in future Projects posts.  Why does this matter?

In the course of cleaning up those metals and plastics I've run across all sorts of different materials and construction techniques.  I've seen people use the wrong glue for the wrong project material.  I've had to cut and chop and slice through every sort of botched conversion, and even a few normal soldiers that somehow went wrong.  Yet I've pinpointed the culprit here - GW themselves have contributed to more ruined models than any other single factor.

You see, plastic glue is PERMANENT when used on a plastic model, for better or for worse.  It literally melts the plastic it comes in contact with, and it isn't very good on metal.  In the hands of a novice modeler, this almost always ends in disaster when they bring home their first plastic kit and bottle of awesome, expensive GW glue.  Then someday the novice gains experience and realizes that he must replace these old models for aesthetic reasons, and that's more money for GW.

It used to be that you could only get plastic glue from GW.  That was what they sold - the whole plastic/super glue differentiation came in at the same time they started offering the "thick and thin" varieties - which is to say, not very long.  When novice modelers buy into GW games, they naturally got sold a bottle of plastic glue - they they proceed to melt everything with.  This is absolutely (without a doubt) the number one cause of model death at the Wargate - I've gotten to the point where I just chuck models that had plastic glue smeared all over it, much to the chagrin of some gamers hereabouts.

No offense to said novices - they are pros now.  So, I'm going to take a moment and give out the same guidelines I work by.  Hopefully it will spare you some problems later when you want to turn over your model collection.

First, buy super glue.  Super glue is best.  Super glue is very cheap - the pack on the right is the one I always buy.  It's the cheapest, most generic pack my Wal-Mart carries.  It's so generic, I couldn't find it on the Wal-Mart webstore.  I don't remember how much it costs - it's like $2 for a 4-pack.  It dries quick and strong, and it doesn't damage the material directly.  It works on any material - plastic, resin or metal.  The tubes keep forever, until opened - then they can last up to a month as long as you don't leave it open overnight.  Then it loses a lot of it's "quick-dry" property.  But hey, you have a 4-pack so you can just open another one.

Aside from a few cases where plastic glue is required, you will use super glue for almost every single job you could think of.  You will even use this where you would normally need to pin a large metal piece - with the pin, super glue is still the best choice.

The only time you will use plastic glue is when you need a large plastic piece fixed in position with a very strong bond.  That is all.  That is it.  Instead of pinning a plastic piece, just use plastic glue.

In conclusion, buy the cheapest, generic glue you can find.  You might have to experiment, but if you can find that black and yellow blister in your Wally World's home improvement section you just found the best, cheapest tool I've ever found in my twenty-plus years as a modeler.  If you can't, you might have to play trial and error by grabbing a few types and experimenting with them.  Just stay clear of super glue gels - those really suck for our purposes.

Also, pick up one vial of GW thick plastic glue and use it very sparingly for your large and awkward pieces.  There are cases where plastic glue is preferable, but these will usually be only sections of a model - there's no need to use plastic glue to construct the rest of your daemon prince, only to attach the wings to the body (for instance).  Keep this in mind, because I hate cleaning plastic glue off old models.  It's a nightmare, and it usually ends badly.

Shaun's Moria Adventure, Part the Second: Puttin' On the Table

Our buddy Shaun is a newcomer to the world of miniature wargaming, and this is the short story of how his first army comes together.  

Continued from Part 1.

Shaunny’s been hard at work on his goblins of Moria list, and the project continues at a solid pace.  I’m impressed with his ability to work with new mediums and techniques in a short period of time.  He’s at the stage where the army he sees in his mind is going to become painted actuality.  We’re going to examine the next step in that process.

After building the list, he had to actually obtain those models.  For a while, it was quite daunting to try to build an adequate Lord of the Rings force.  There was a lot of confusion, but the new sourcebooks make it much easier.   Also, Games Workshop reworked a lot of the plastics lines to include 12 warriors each.  So a lot has changed over the years.  For Shaunny, as a member of the club, he had it really easy.

Our friend Captain Video had a Mines of Moria boxed set, and was wanting to divest himself of the goblins and troll.  A short barter later (goodbye, metal Legolas) and the core force of goblins and the cave troll was in Shaunny’s possession, brooding and wanting a chance to be evil.  Of course, they still needed the treatment.

Wash, rinse, paint.

Let the troll-bathing commence.

Shaunny already made his decisions about the list, so all we had to do was fill it out with the command models he needed.  These were readily available from the GW website, so a short time after figuring out we wanted Durburz, some Blackshields and the Blackshields command we had it on the way.  Good ol’ GEE-DUB.

Once they got arrived, Shaunny cut his teeth on preparing models for painting the proper way.  He painstakingly got all the mold lines, flash and vents cleaned up from his shiny new models and glued them up.  He even used some Liquid Green Stuff on his plastic troll, which worked fantastic.  Once they were ranked up and he saw his army taking shape, there was no going back for our intrepid gamer.  The new goblin king has arrived!

It’s always a good idea to wash every box set you get to remove the release agent, especially on plastics.  Once all the models were washed, Shaunny set about painting them right away.  Like I said, I was quite impressed with his speed, and he was very eager to learn all the techniques such as drybrushing, overbrushing, layering, inking, glazing and highlighting.  We’ll see the finished army here quite soon!

Now, these goblins are waging war in our Dragon Sword campaign, and not doing such a bad job!  They look great on the table, and it seems Shaunny’s just a natural at a lot of the angles in the hobby.  Yet the fighting is frenetic here at the Wargate.  We’ll see how the endless waves of war take their toll! 

Our Season 2 campaigns are wrapping up soon!  More news on Game Day!  See you then!

Shaun's Moria Adventure, Part the First: New Player, New Book, New List

In this series, we'll be exploring how a new player gets started in the Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game by Games Workshop.  We'll be exploring the different stages of bringing the army to the table, from inception to it's first victories and incorporation into the Wargate's ongoing Middle-Earth narratives.  We'll be doing more of these articles as more armies are raised across all our games, to help show off our organic army building process and help encourage new armies to be built expediently, without becoming a chore.

Fear the New King of Moria.

This season, we have Shaunny.  Shaunny joins us from the North by Northwest, and has been hanging around for a few Krampus Days now.  He's finally decided it's time to pick up a banner and enter the Wargate - after careful consideration he's entered this season's campaign to help the Dark Lord achieve dominance over the Free Peoples of Middle-Earth.  Lurking around the edges for a few game days, he's done his research in the Moria sourcebook to find the models he likes and put together his list.

Since the army is hitting the ground running this campaign season, Shaunny's first step is to assemble a list to his liking.  Unafraid of the manlings and elves, he's agreed to share this list with us so we can see how he plots to build his army.  So born are the Bad Company from Gundabad (tentative title), Shaunny's first army.  With this he'll gut halflings from here to the Bree-lands.

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Bad Company From Gundabad

Warband 1

• Durburz, Goblin King of Moria
• 2 Gundabad Blackshields with Shield
• 2 Gundabad Blackshields with Spear and Shield
• Gundabad Blackshield Drummers
• Cave Troll

Warband 2

• Gundabad Blackshield Captain
• 8 Moria Goblin Warriors with Spears
• 4 Moria Goblin Warriors with Bows

Warband 3

• Gundabad Blackshield Shaman
• 8 Moria Goblin Warriors with Shields
• 4 Moria Goblin Warriors with Bows

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This list is 500 points, making it more than enough to engage warbands around the ol' Wargate.  For our Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Games we usually do 250 point increments, so if you prepare for that you won't be disappointed.  If you're interested, build a 250 point list.  If you're into it, build a 500 point list. If you're serious about it, try 750 points.  If you're a fanatic, 1000 points is going to include a lot of models, perhaps 80 or more if you really squeeze it for orcs.  Of course, 1000 points of heroes isn't going to have many models at all, as is evidenced by the White Council or Fellowship lists.

So, Shaunny's army is done and setup in the Battles Book.  He can literally spring this army forth at any time, so any Good generals out there should listen up.  More of the Shadow is spreading, creeping forth from the Misty Mountains like the tendrils of some evil tree.

You should attempt to destroy the dens of Moria's evil before it's too late!

Time to Prime!

Army Painter :  Skeleton Bone spray primer!

If there is one thing we at The Wargate take seriously, it is Priming. This is the bare bones and meat of the model and table top wargame world. Simply put, to model is to prime. Today I, Jerry Wargate, will take you on a small crash course into the cold and cruel world of priming.  I will be using some of my beloved Skeleton Bone Army Painter Primer on my new Necromunda gang, the Abu Dabis.
This stuff in my opinon is the liquid gold of primer. Good quality and long lasting, The Army Painter puts out alot of awesome products for hobby people to use and experiment with. Check out the website and order some supplies at their website, here.  The Tallarn Imperial Guard (Abu Dabis!) models by Games Workshop will be my examples.

Games Workshop is truly awesome.

Clean your models! Remove all excess molding and scrap materials. Complete assembly is not required. Inspect them twice and maybe ask a friend to check them out to see what you have missed.

All cleaned up!

Stage Two
Find a dry and low air flow area to prime in. A garage is perfect, or any like wise building. A clean dustless surface for your models to rest on while priming is a must! Any clean box top will do. I find pliers to be helpful as well as paper towels for any messes.

Jerry Wargate blowing out any old primer in the can.

Stage Three
Shake the can and pop the cap off, its time to prime! I always waste about 6 seconds of air/primer from the cap on my box top first to blow out any impurities or excess thinner out of the can everytime I use it. Rather waste a little primer than waste a model. It allows any old primer or gas to blow out before you use it on your own models.

Lined up and ready to receive the gift of color!

Spray primer from 8 inches away from the model or more. I lighty spray and cover each from one side and move down the line. Stop frequently and check your work to see if you need to adjust your grips or timing. You want it on there smooth yet not covering any of the models detail.  Moving around the table at different angles and spraying primer from different points will allow a nice coverage to your models.

Watch the fingers!

As a 2nd option, some will find it easier to do each individually. This makes pliers a worthy tool. This method shown in the picture above allows easy priming and accurate coating.  It  can take a lot longer but it is a sure way to get your models where you want them to be primer wise.

Completed!  New gang time!

Stage Four
Let them sit and dry for at least 15 min. Check each model for any missed spots that need more priming, apply as needed, and your complete! Ready for Paint!

Everyone knows painted models fight better!

Jerry has been fired up about the latest Necromunda campaign with the rest of us, and promises to regale us with the further exploits of the Brotherhood of the Most Hated next month when Warhammer 40,000 season starts!


Where's your newest project at?  Got some stuff to show off now that it's ready for battle?  New project logs for each campaign season are always appreciated, so plan your own project logs for upcoming seasons and we'll get up on the 'gate!

Casey Casem Cases Your Cases

The spectre of Death hangs over the Wargate, and we wouldn't want it any other way! Armies and Warbands gather, hordes of gun and knife wielding gangs muster in the shadows, and the commotion around the game table is at an all time high! This last weekend we had an awesome day for our Mordheim campaign Death in the Delve, and we're going to be finishing up Round 1 of the Campaign in the next few weeks!

With all these minis swarming around the 'gate, I thought it would be a good time to share with you my thoughts on a truly important issue - protection for your investment (little plastic men).

Cases! Figure Cases! Yeah, so you keep yours in a shoebox, and it's perfectly serviceable. It always makes me cringe when I see a fifty dollar model languishing in a mass grave, in a box full of other miniatures that have either been discarded or forgotten. With as much money as you spend on the model I'd think you'd have a vested interest in making sure they were at least always where you can find them, and if they are painted...why wouldn't you go to extra lengths to maintain that work which you have so finely wrought?

Thankfully, there are plenty of options.

Here we have the ubiquitous Games Workshop Figure Case. Pictured is the Army Case, but it comes in several flavors on the Games Workshop website. This case is about $100, and you can get half size versions of it for half that price. The Monster Case is nice for very large models, and for storing infantry the Citadel Figure Case can hold something like 88 troopers that are standard size.

There are a variety of cases made by companies like Sabol Design's Army Transport. This range has pretty much all you could ask for, and with stylish outer casing - really great if you're moving around a lot and must transport your army to every venue. These cases can get really expensive, but are very high quality.

Another great option in this category is Battlefoam, a company who can produce custom designs for your figure trays. Again, this is in the 'expensive' category, but I do recommend getting at least one of these systems for official events and also because they are very cool.

Here at the Wargate, we have a LOT of models laying around in various stages of composition from unconstructed and unpainted to half painted and fully lacquered. LOTS of miniatures, for lots of various games. It must be said that we've not been able to keep up with certain concerns of protecting miniatures with lavish and expensive cases, but we do have a very nice system that is cheap and addresses our true concern.

Lack of space.

Above is a selection of miniature cases here at the Wargate, which the astute among you will note are simply fishing tackle cases. These can be bought from the nearest store for around $5. The amount of miniatures each will hold is different depending on the composition of the case, but you can do about 1000 points per case. They come in various sizes, so you can get the exact cases you need to house your armies.

If you take some insulation foam and line the cases with pieces cut with an exacto blade, you can get a secure home for your model. Above are a few cases that have recently been cut for Joe's Eldar army, and they fit quite snug in there with minimal jostling around.

They won't stand up to being thrown from a second story window, but hey - they are $5 bucks and are quite small. We have a huge stack of them here, and it's growing. For storage, you can't beat these awesome cases - but for long distance transport to a tournament or other high-energy congregation you might want to get one of the more expensive brands up above.

Anyways, that's enough from me for now. Get cases for all your forces! 40k and Warhammer Armies, Necromunda Gangs, Legions of Middle Earth and Mordheim Warbands all deserve nice cases. They can help you keep your armies straight also, so you can stop worrying about your composition and logistics and get into the fight!

Protect your hobby tools and concentrate on your tactics!